The Keeper of the Shoes.
While in New York last week I had the privilege of spending a day at the Nina Shoes offices. I spent most of my time chatting with their archivist, Zoe Arcidiacono. Vintage is what inspires designs of today and having a proper archive for reference is an important part of the design process. Have a look into her world...
Tell us your name and title:
Zoe Arcidiacono/Archivist, In broader terms I think of myself as a Fashion Archivist and Trend Forecaster.
Describe your feelings about the importance of vintage and designing for today:
Vintage clothing and accessories are an amazing and valuable resource for designers and most look to them for inspiration. In the Archive at Nina shoes designers use the archives for new (or should I say very old) ways to riff on current trends. For example bows which are very popular right now a designer will look at shoes with bows from the 40s, 50s or even the way Roger Vivier did them in the 80s. Or, to get ideas for strappy sandals-designers in the 50s did them in infinite ways that look great on the foot. A designer will look at those shoes and use it for a basis of a design-and then change or add something to make it his or her own.
Tell us your name and title:
Zoe Arcidiacono/Archivist, In broader terms I think of myself as a Fashion Archivist and Trend Forecaster.
Describe your feelings about the importance of vintage and designing for today:
Vintage clothing and accessories are an amazing and valuable resource for designers and most look to them for inspiration. In the Archive at Nina shoes designers use the archives for new (or should I say very old) ways to riff on current trends. For example bows which are very popular right now a designer will look at shoes with bows from the 40s, 50s or even the way Roger Vivier did them in the 80s. Or, to get ideas for strappy sandals-designers in the 50s did them in infinite ways that look great on the foot. A designer will look at those shoes and use it for a basis of a design-and then change or add something to make it his or her own.
I had a similar position at Donna Karan and every department from Collection, DKNY to the home division used the Antique Library as a design resource. They look to Vintage garments for color, fabrication, silhouette, textile design or pattern. I was always amazed at the way the home department could take a 1930s silk gown borrow one detail from it and apply it to a pillow or bed-spread in a way that was completely fresh and modern-and so beautiful. Or the way the knitwear team could look at a turn-of-the century undergarment and use it to create a beautiful, sexy dress. And neither screamed their source.
What is your favorite era for fashion and why?
I can find something I love from every era in fashion-I have a couple of things (skirt, corset covers) circa 1900 and from every decade in the 20th century. That said, I have the most from the 30s and 70s. I tend to favor clothing that is draped and body-conscious rather than pieces that are very tailored. I love the bias cut, cotton jersey and silk satin!
These are called "lasts". Zoe explained to me that the shape of the last determines the entire shape of the shoe and the height of the heel. An important tool in the designing of a shoe.
Who are some of your favorite designers/brands from today and yesterday?
Madeleine Vionnet, Coco Chanel, Bonnie Cashin, Claire McCardell, Betsey Johnson circa 1965-70s, Biba, Norma Kamali, Donna Karan, Pucci and Marimekko for their printed textiles, Costello Tagliapietra, Diane Von Furstenberg, Stella McCartney for Adidas and Maria Cornejo. I am also very interested in what the emerging designer, Angel Chang is doing with textiles and technology. I'd love a jersey dress that changes color according to the temperature!
Here are some of the shoes that Zoe houses in the archive...
Nina from the 80's...
A project that never came to fruition was a collaboration with Betsy Johnson. Stanley, one of the brothers/founders of Nina saved everything! Lucky for us! Here is an original sketch and sample of one of her designs.
Nina from the 70's...
The original shoe and picture of Stanley holding the shoe back in the day.
Nina from the 70's and 60's...
Nina from the 60's and 50's...
The archive not only houses Nina shoes but other brands of design importance...
Please note that the bottom right picture is the most amazing Nina jazz booty from the 80's!
Design marvels!!! Albion was a famous cobbler from Italy with a very wild imagination as you can see!
There are no "new" designs. In today's design world having the ability to forecast what the next big thing will be in terms of rehashing an era gone by is design. Zoe and I both agreed that new things will come in the form of textiles but silhouettes and garment styles will continue to be "what goes around come around". Having resources of vintage for reference and inspiration are key...look to the past to see the future. And having a "keeper" to guard these precious gems is most important!!
What is your favorite era for fashion and why?
I can find something I love from every era in fashion-I have a couple of things (skirt, corset covers) circa 1900 and from every decade in the 20th century. That said, I have the most from the 30s and 70s. I tend to favor clothing that is draped and body-conscious rather than pieces that are very tailored. I love the bias cut, cotton jersey and silk satin!
These are called "lasts". Zoe explained to me that the shape of the last determines the entire shape of the shoe and the height of the heel. An important tool in the designing of a shoe.
Who are some of your favorite designers/brands from today and yesterday?
Madeleine Vionnet, Coco Chanel, Bonnie Cashin, Claire McCardell, Betsey Johnson circa 1965-70s, Biba, Norma Kamali, Donna Karan, Pucci and Marimekko for their printed textiles, Costello Tagliapietra, Diane Von Furstenberg, Stella McCartney for Adidas and Maria Cornejo. I am also very interested in what the emerging designer, Angel Chang is doing with textiles and technology. I'd love a jersey dress that changes color according to the temperature!
Here are some of the shoes that Zoe houses in the archive...
Nina from the 80's...
A project that never came to fruition was a collaboration with Betsy Johnson. Stanley, one of the brothers/founders of Nina saved everything! Lucky for us! Here is an original sketch and sample of one of her designs.
Nina from the 70's...
The original shoe and picture of Stanley holding the shoe back in the day.
Nina from the 70's and 60's...
Nina from the 60's and 50's...
The archive not only houses Nina shoes but other brands of design importance...
Please note that the bottom right picture is the most amazing Nina jazz booty from the 80's!
Design marvels!!! Albion was a famous cobbler from Italy with a very wild imagination as you can see!
There are no "new" designs. In today's design world having the ability to forecast what the next big thing will be in terms of rehashing an era gone by is design. Zoe and I both agreed that new things will come in the form of textiles but silhouettes and garment styles will continue to be "what goes around come around". Having resources of vintage for reference and inspiration are key...look to the past to see the future. And having a "keeper" to guard these precious gems is most important!!
posted by The Goods! at 11:06 AM
3 Comments:
wow, great feature! it's cool to see all those old shoes
this is amazing! i want a job like that!
great post and amazing pictures!
Post a Comment
<< Home